Thence he sailed to a port near Jaffa, and proceeded to Jerusalem. It was on a picturesque grassy knoll, hard by a grove of olives, that he gave the Pacha a specimen of his art. The latter had ordered out for his inspection four of his best mares of the purest Nedgedee caste and, after Mr. Rarey had ridden one, a spirited gray, he took a brown horse from the, hands of the attendant eunuch and, with the aid of the two little straps, made the animal follow him all about the pasture. The gray, whose ragged hips and long neck did not improve her, was a little over fifteen hands high and so highly valued that her master had refused a thousand pounds for her.

Then followed an excursion to the Dead sea, which was somewhat spoiled by a party of Bedouins, who descended on the tent and cooking utensils, made the cook stand and deliver his watch and maltreated the solitary soldier for saucily remonstrating. Mr. Rarey and his party were some miles ahead at the time; but the former learned from the incident the lesson of caution and left all of his possessions in Damascus when later, accompanied only by Major Frazer, of lion-hunting fame, and an interpreter, he spent several days in the desert in search of horse lore, riding up to every encampment he could descry and trusting for food and a night's lodging to the sheiks of the villages.

At Beyrout, on his return, he found the best Arab he had seen on his travels, among a lot of twenty which some Sardinian officers had got together for their king. Rhodes and Smyrna had little to show in this way; but at Constantinople, he found several studs, principally saddle-horses, where the animals were thoroughly understood and scientifically handled. The Arabs had disappointed him. Their intimate life with the horse from the animal's birth had given them complete mastery, but he doubted if they had thought out any system or discovered any principle by which they could handle a horse entirely new to them. He was confirmed in this belief by the helplessness and fright they showed when the stallion he was riding on the tour refused, one morning, to let one of them bridle him. The Prophet was invoked in vain, and finally Mr. Rarey had to be summoned from the tent of the sheik where he was eating brown bread and wild honey, to put matters to right-a matter of no great difficulty when the crowd of agitated turbans had been thrust back a space.

But Mr. Rarey found beauty in other things as well as in the horse. He tells in his diary of camping one night close to the foot of Mount Hermon at the upper fountain of the Jordan. Proceeding thence at daybreak on the road to Damascus, they saw Arab villages built like swallows' nests on the edge of the mountain cliff. He met tall, dark-skinned, white-bearded fathers, bearing themselves like princes and driving their flocks of goats, sheep and cattle down the winding mountain paths to graze in the meadows below. With one of these patriarchs was a beautiful Arab girl sitting astride a proud, prancing steed and affectionately looking to the care of the kids, whose heads came to the top of the pockets on either side of the saddle on which she sat. Her picturesque attire - handsome red jacket, full blue trousers and thin veil head covering, which she drew closely about her face, almost hiding her regular features-completed the splendid picture this child of nature made. The men he found to be intelligent and manly specimens of their kind.

During his stay in Constantinople, Mr. Rarey was a guest at the Sultan’s palace, where he drank coffee with his hosts and smoked a pipe whose amber mouthpiece was set with diamonds.